An afternoon in... Hong Kong

Colette Steckel visits Hong Kong

From the moment you arrive in Hong Kong, you can�t help but be impressed by this ultra-modern utopia. First, you land at Chep Lap Kok international airport, the city�s architectural masterpiece, designed by Sir Norman Foster. Then you take a scenic taxi ride along Tsing Ma Bridge, a feat of engineering and, incidentally, the world�s longest suspension bridge. And eventually you descend on Hong Kong Island, a bustling metropolis crammed with glittering apartment blocks and offices, fashionable restaurants and smartly dressed residents. Impressive might well be an understatement. But then, Hong Kong isn�t afraid to display its wealth like a shiny button.

It also has the distinction of being a land of contrasts. Where else would you find Chinese medicine shops, street vendors selling everything from songbirds to sizzling pork, and fishermen living on junks anchored in the city�s harbours? This fusion of Chinese heritage with a colonial past - where East meets West and old sits comfortably with new - makes for a seductive blend. There�s nothing quite like it.

Start off with a visit to Victoria Peak, Hong Kong�s essential sight. The best, and most enjoyable, way to get there is by the Peak Tram, which has been transporting passengers since 1888. The vertiginous ascent, passing some of Hong Kong�s most exclusive neighbourhoods, brings you to the Peak tower, a bizarre edifice 396 metres above sea-level. Bypass the tacky souvenir shops and numerous cafes lining the building and head for the fifth floor viewing terrace, where, on a clear day, there is a sweeping vista of Hong Kong Island and neighbouring Kowloon. The tram runs until midnight, offering the chance to see the marvellous spectacle of the city�s lights. Hikers can scale the real peak, some 140 metres above, for an even better view.

Another way to get the lay of the land is to ride the Mid-levels Escalator (called mid-levels because it is half way up to the Peak). I know, it�s just an escalator but, as the world�s longest at 800 metres, it has become something of celebrity in the city, transporting 36,000 people a day. Board the covered escalator (it only goes up except during the morning rush hour) at Central Market and glimpse the streets of SoHo, Hong Kong�s fashionable restaurant and bar district, on your way uphill.

While in the SoHo district, seek out Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road, one of the oldest of Hong Kong�s many temples. Honouring the gods of literature (Man) and war (Mo), the temple is a riot of colour with pillars, painted doors and decorated latticework in hues of red and gold. You�re unlikely to linger at the temple for long though, as the copious coils of burning incense hanging from the ceiling emit clouds of smoke that sting your eyes and start your head spinning in no time.

In a city not known for its peace and quiet, Hong Kong Park - a lovely oasis in the city centre - is something of a treat. With its artificial waterfall, pond, greenhouse and aviary, the park is a great spot for relaxing. It�s also home to Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in Hong Kong. Built between 1844 and 1846, Flagstaff House was the former office and residence of the Commander of British Forces. In 1978, it was converted into a museum celebrating the art of Chinese tea drinking. On display is teaware, including rare Chinese ceramics.

In stark contrast to the cool white exterior of Flagstaff House are the high-rise mirrored buildings which serve as its backdrop. Principal among them is the dramatic Bank of China tower, a soaring, irregular structure designed by Chinese-American architect IM Pei. The tower dwarfs its nearest rival in terms of spectacle, the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank Building, whose image graces Hong Kong�s bank notes. Escalator rides in both buildings are available.

For a change of scene, take the Star Ferry - an event in itself - over to Kowloon, Hong Kong�s tourist hub. Along Nathan Road, the main drag, there is a plethora of shops and stalls to indulge your shopping cravings. In the evening, the popular night market on nearby Temple Street, comes to life, with hawkers attempting to sell their cheap wares. It�s entertaining, to say the least.

Aside from being a mecca for shopping, Kowloon boasts the famous Peninsula Hotel, a Hong Kong landmark. It�s not strictly a must-see, but the opulent hotel lobby deserves a look and if you feel like flexing the plastic, afternoon tea, to the strains of a classical string ensemble, is reputed to be worth the extravagance.

Before getting the ferry back to Hong Kong Island, unless you�re one of the privileged few staying at the Peninsula, drop by the Hong Kong Museum of Art next to the pier. The unappealing building doesn�t quite fit with the treasures housed within. Stroll along galleries displaying Chinese antiquities, historical photographs and artefacts, all charting Hong Kong�s exotic past. On exiting, you can marvel at how far the city has come.

Reporting by Colette Steckel.